The Roamer’s Playbook: Al-Ula, Saudi Arabia

May 28

1. About Al-Ula

Al-Ula is one of Saudi Arabia’s most visually stunning and culturally rich destinations—home to ancient tombs, dramatic rock formations, and luxury desert resorts. From UNESCO World Heritage Sites to modern architectural marvels, Al-Ula offers a surreal mix of history, design, and tranquility. It’s the kind of place where time slows down and every corner feels like a cinematic moment.

2. How I Got There

I flew into Medina and rented a car, and the process was surprisingly smooth. Since Saudi Arabia now allows women to drive, I decided to take full advantage and made the 4-hour drive through the desert to Al-Ula. The journey was scenic and peaceful, with stunning views of golden sand and rugged cliffs. If you'd prefer not to drive, Al-Ula does have its own airport, and flights are available from major cities like Riyadh and Jeddah.

3. Entry Requirements

Saudi Arabia offers e-visas for many nationalities, including U.S. citizens. Apply online via the official Saudi eVisa portal. Note that modest dress and respect for local customs are expected throughout your visit.

4. Things to Know Before Visiting

Al-Ula is very quiet and remote—plan your activities in advance.
The climate is dry and can be hot during the day, cool at night.
Transport is limited; resorts like Banyan Tree provide buggies to navigate the property. Public transportation options in Al-Ula are minimal, so renting a car is highly recommended if you plan to explore outside the resort.
Alcohol is prohibited, but you’ll find incredible non-alcoholic mocktails and teas.
Cashless payments are common—credit cards are widely accepted.

5. Where I Stayed

I stayed at Banyan Tree AlUla, a luxury desert sanctuary nestled within a canyon. The resort offers beautiful private villas, each with breathtaking desert views. A standout feature is their buggy service, which transports guests around the expansive resort prompt and convenient. Although the main pool at Banyan Tree was temporarily closed when I was there, we were able to access the pool at their sister property nearby (Habitat). The on-site Thai restaurant was a highlight, authentic flavors and impeccable ambiance. One of the highlights of my stay was their guided stargazing experience—complete with professional-grade equipment and a host who beautifully explains the constellations. There's also an outdoor terrace where you can enjoy some of the smoothest shisha I've ever had while gazing at the stars. Breakfast at Banyan Tree was a feast: an impressive spread with fresh juices, local dishes, and global favorites. It was honestly one of the best breakfast experiences I’ve had in any luxury resort.

6. Things to Do in Al-Ula

Visit Old Town Al-Ula: Explore preserved mudbrick buildings and browse local shops and cafes.
See Elephant Rock: Best viewed at sunset, this natural rock formation is one of Al-Ula’s icons.
Explore the resort grounds: The properties in Al-Ula are a destination of their own—Banyan Tree, Habitas, and others offer art, spas, and curated experiences.
Visit Maraya Concert Hall: This stunning mirrored building blends into the desert and is the largest mirrored structure in the world. I could even see its reflection from my hotel room, which was breathtaking.
Stargazing: The clear skies and desert setting make Al-Ula ideal for stargazing.
Optional: Take a guided tour to Hegra (Madain Saleh), a UNESCO site with rock-cut tombs rivaling Petra.

7. Where to Eat (and What to Try)

Dining in Al-Ula is refined and diverse. The Thai restaurant at Banyan Tree served beautifully presented, authentic dishes in a tranquil setting. Many resorts offer locally inspired fusion menus featuring dates, lamb, rice, and rich spice blends. Also try the fresh juices and herbal teas offered throughout your stay.

8. What to Wear in Al-Ula

Saudi Arabia is conservative, so modest attire is advised in public. While inside your resort, relaxed and elegant resort wear is fine. For excursions, wear long, loose clothing and closed-toe shoes to protect against sun and sand. A scarf or shawl is handy for extra coverage or warmth in the evening. I visited in January, and while the days were mild, the nights were surprisingly chilly. Banyan Tree provides ultra-cozy robes possibly made of sheepskin which guests can borrow during their stay. These robes were perfect for relaxing in the evenings or for enjoying the cool desert air from your villa’s patio.

The Roamer’s Playbook: 3-Day Itinerary for Al-Ula, Saudi Arabia

A curated itinerary to uncover the ancient beauty, luxury stays, and hidden gems of Al-Ula—perfectly balanced between exploration and relaxation.

Day 1: Arrival + Resort Exploration

Arrive in AlUla via domestic flight. Check into Banyan Tree AlUla.
Use the afternoon to settle into your villa and explore the resort via buggy (they arrive promptly and make navigating the resort easy).
Relax with a mocktail or mint tea while soaking in the views from your private patio.
Dinner: Thai Restaurant at Banyan Tree– delicious dishes in a serene setting.

Day 2: Ancient Landscapes + Desert Icons

Breakfast at the resort.
Morning visit to Elephant Rock – a natural wonder best viewed with early light.
Continue to Old Town AlUla: explore mudbrick alleys, artisan shops, and historical sites.
Lunch: Local café in Old Town with shaded courtyard seating.
Afternoon: Return to resort or explore another luxury property (e.g., Habitas) to enjoy their design, food, or spa.
Dinner: Back at Banyan Tree or try dining at the sister property poolside restaurant (if open).

Day 3: Optional Adventure + Departure

Optional morning visit to Hegra (UNESCO site with rock-cut tombs). Book a guided tour in advance.
Enjoy a spa treatment or dip in the sister property’s pool (since Banyan Tree’s pool may be closed).
Light lunch at the resort before check-out.
Depart AlUla for onward travel.